Orr Wines & Wine Lab

Erica Orr of Orr Wines and Wine Lab

Orr Wines

Orr Wine Lab

Photo #4: Linoleum Printmaker Christie Tirado from a photo by Erica Orr

Photo #6 Credits: Victoria Wright, Ramin Rahimian, Kyu Han, Katelyn Peil

Erica Orr was on track to have a career as a scientist, likely working in a lab.  She received an undergraduate degree in biochemistry from the University of California at Berkeley, and worked in the lab of Nobel prize winner Elizabeth Blackburn at UC—San Francisco.  But in 1998 when she was still working in the lab, she had a chance encounter in a Napa bar with winemaker Aaron Pott that changed the course of her career.  He made the job of winemaker sound so enticing, that Erica took leave from the lab to work a harvest and to enroll in the Master’s Program in Food Science with a specialty in wine chemistry at UC Davis.  Before completing the program in 2003, Erica spent time working with winemakers in Napa, Burgundy, and Australia, and eventually took an Assistant Winemaker position in Washington state in 2005. 

As Assistant Winemaker she did lab analysis for the winery, and soon started doing analysis and consulting for other wineries.  Friends and colleagues encouraged her to start her own wine lab, which she did in 2006.  At the time there was no lab for wine analysis in Woodinville, and Erica’s wine lab is currently the only one in Woodinville.   She has over 100 clients that seek her assistance for lab analysis and/or consulting at various stages of the winemaking process.  In 2007, Erica became consulting winemaker for Baer Winery, and six years later started her own Orr Wines label with an outstanding old vines Chenin Blanc.  In 2020 she started making a red wine to honor and support vineyard workers.  Grapes are donated by Stillwater Creek Vineyard and all proceeds from the wine help to support medical and dental assistance for vineyard workers.  This interview explores the role of the lab in the winemaking process, as well as Erica’s excellent Orr Wines.

Listen to the Interview: 

Lines on Wines · #165 Orr Wines & Wine Lab - Erica Orr

Vibe Cellars

Erik Cooper of Vibe Cellars

Vibe Cellars is very much a family endeavor with Erik Cooper, his twin brother Michael, and father George all involved.  But the family winemaking roots go way back in time and place to the Piedmont region of Italy.  These roots are reflected in the wines, which are mostly made in the Italian and Bordeaux styles.  Erik is the winemaker, and he sources grapes from outstanding vineyards across several different Washington AVAs.  The first Vibe wines were ready for sale in March 2020, a challenging time to start a new winery, to say the least.  Another challenge was the lack of a tasting room, which was rectified by Fall 2021.  In October 2021, Vibe Cellars opened in Manson on a corner site with a stunning patio view of Lake Chelan and surrounding mountains.

The winery name and tasting room reflect the Cooper philosophy when it comes to wine.  For Erik and his family, good wine is about fun, accessibility, and positive feelings, or good “vibes”.  The tasting room is designed with these values in mind.  For example, there is a wall of vinyl records to play to create a desired feeling.  The patio is comfortable and welcoming, with amazing views of the lake.  There are many diverse events at the tasting room, including live music, yoga, sports on the big screen, and more.  The music theme has even influenced one of the wine labels, as its design was inspired by the classic Stratocaster Seafoam Green Fender guitar.  Vibe Cellars is a friendly and fun addition to the charming community of tasting rooms in Manson, WA.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #164 Vibe Cellars - Erik Cooper

Apple Valley Emporium (AVE)

Jessica DellaTorre & John Erickson of Apple Valley Emporium (AVE), Central WA’s only board and bottle shop!!

Jessica DellaTorre and John Erickson came to California from different sides of the US, she from Florida, he from Washington.  John grew up skateboarding, and all his jobs have involved the skateboard industry.  Jessica had a variety of jobs in CA, including at a spa, winery and other venues as a hospitality manager.  She and her family opened a bar and restaurant in Los Angeles, and that’s where she and John met.  During the pandemic, they moved to Yakima, and opened the Apple Valley Emporium (AVE Yakima) in 2021 just on the outskirts of the downtown area.  The name is a nod to the Yakima Valley’s fame as an apple growing region, and to the shop’s variety of goods.  While the AVE specializes in skateboards and natural and organic wines from around the world, it also offers clothing, shoes, accessories and pantry items.  One of their slogans is “Look Better! Feel Better!” by visiting the AVE.

What do skateboards and organic wines have in common?  That is one of the things we discuss in this interview.  We also explore the history of skateboarding, and the meaning of natural and organic wine.  It turns out that skateboards and I emerged together in CA in the 1950s, and I got my one and only board in the 1960s when they became popular across the US.  My natural wood board with small metal wheels bears no relation to the skateboards in the AVE.  The wall of boards, or decks, at the AVE is as colorful as the walls of wine bottles with their labels, as skateboards are now illustrated.  There is a popular genre of skateboard art that is now found in museums and galleries.  The shop is a place to go not only to look and feel better, but also to have fun.  They recently observed Skate Shop Day, which is a global event attracting people of all ages and backgrounds.  They also have a fun wine club. Don’t miss this unique shop the next time you are in Yakima, or explore their goods online!!

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #163 Apple Valley Emporium (AVE) - Jessica and John

Sage Rat Wine

Dusty Jenkins of Sage Rat Wine

Dusty Jenkins grew up in the Yakima Valley, never imagining he would one day settle there to make wine.  He studied film in college, and spent lots of time in dark rooms in New York and elsewhere.  He had friends making wine in WA, and their more physical, outdoor life grew increasingly attractive to him with every hour he spent in the dark room.  In 2015, Dusty left the film world to enroll in Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture Program.  Two years later he was Assistant Winemaker at Gilbert Cellars in Yakima, and in 2022 became their head winemaker.  While at Gilbert Cellars, he started his own Sage Rat Wine label, the subject of this interview.  His goal with this label is to make wines with the “flavor of irreverence and experimentation.”  I think you will see from this interview, and even more from tasting his wines, that he has achieved his goal.

Whether white, orange, rosé, sparkling or red, Sage Rat wines are not only irreverent, but also very approachable, food friendly, and affordable.  The bottles range in price from $20 to $26, available on the website or in restaurants and shops around Washington state.  All Sage Rat wines are made with minimal intervention and little to no additives.  Dusty is partial to Italian grape varieties, and makes one of the finest Barbera wines in WA.  He also produces unique pét-nat wines, one with Nebbiolo and the other with Barbera.  His Rosé is equally unique, showcasing the Spanish variety Graciano.  His wine that is most typical of Washington is Scrublands, a twist on the Super Tuscan style, made with 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Sangiovese.  These wines are outstanding quality for the money, and meant to be playful, drunk young, and ideal complements to food.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #162 Sage Rat Wine - Dusty Jenkins

Flavors of Burgundy River Cruise

Sebastien Leroy, Product Manager with AmaWaterways

Photos courtesy of AmaWaterways, used with permission.

Sebastien Leroy grew up in Normandy, France where he spent many weekends during his first 10 years on his dad’s boat.  He joined AmaWaterways as a cruise manager in 2012, and ten years later became the company’s Product Manager for France, Iberia and the golf program.  Sebastien was instrumental in creating the itinerary for AMA’s Flavors of Burgundy wine river cruise, which is the focus of this interview.  In June 2025, Ellensburg Travel and I will be helping to host this cruise, and are recruiting now for this exciting opportunity.  The flavors of Burgundy are renown, including France’s finest beef (Charolais), finest chicken (Bresse), gooiest cheese (Époisses) and most sought-after wines.  The cruise begins in France’s food capital, Lyon, and travels the Saone River for 7 days to Dijon, capital city of Burgundy.  With the exception of Chablis, it stops in all of Burgundy’s wine regions:  Beaujolais, Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise, and Côte d’Or.

“Oceans take you to countries, Rivers take you through them,” and AmaWaterways specializes in luxury river cruises all over the world.  They set the standard for river cruising, offering all-inclusive packages (excluding bargain air fare and insurance) for a wide variety of interests.  In addition, there are perks for booking with Ellensburg Travel.  Included in your fare will be Burgundy wine tastings/talks by group leader Marji Morgan before the cruise even begins, as well as brief presentations on ship for those interested.  Marji will also provide a printed guide focusing on excursion destinations.  Here are just a few words wine experts have used to describe Burgundy wines:  spiritual, complex, endlessly layered, spellbinding, and deliriously delicious.  Let’s explore together in this interview and on the cruise!

Cruise Flyer Here

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #161 Flavors of Burgundy River Cruise - Sebastien Leroy

Woodward Canyon Winery

Rick Small, co-founder of Woodward Canyon Winery

The Small family has deep agricultural roots in Walla Walla going back multiple generations, with a focus on cattle and wheat farming.  So it was more than a surprise to his parents when, in 1977, Rick Small expressed a desire to plant some wine grapes on family wheat land in Woodward Canyon.  He had a degree in agriculture, but no schooling in growing grapes and making wine.  His good friend Gary Figgins was making homemade wine, and Rick was really enamored with the process.  He wrote to the University of CA at Davis bookstore, and ordered all the textbooks they had on viticulture and enology.  By 1981, Rick had planted some Chardonnay, and he and his wife Darcey had started Woodward Canyon Winery, the second bonded winery in Walla Walla.  They must have been quick studies, because their 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon was Washington state’s first wine to be in Wine Spectator’s Top 10 Wines of the World.

Awards have continued to flow to Woodward Canyon, which today is one of Washington state’s legendary wineries.  Although Rick and Darcey remain co-owners, Woodward Canyon is now in the hands of their children, Jordan and Sager.  They are carrying on the winery’s reputation for fine wine, but also for links with other aspects of culture such as history, the arts and civic mindedness.  In this interview, Rick Small discusses much about the origins and philosophy of Woodward Canyon Winery and Vineyard, and how viticulture and winemaking have changed since those early days.  He also explores the fascinating backstory behind the Walla Walla pioneer labels started in 1981, and the artist labels that have decorated artist series Cabernet bottles since 1992.  Don’t miss this remarkable interview with a true pioneer and pillar of the Washington wine industry.

Listen to the Interview (53 mins):

Lines on Wines · #160 Woodward Canyon Winery - Rick Small

Saviah Cellars

Rich Funk of Saviah Cellars

When Rich and Anita Funk moved from Montana to Walla Walla in 1991, they never imagined they would one day be part of the Washington wine industry.  In fact, their dream was to stay in Walla Walla a couple of years and then return to Montana to open a microbrewery.  Rich had a strong science background and knew something about making beer.  But they both had good jobs in Walla Walla and fell in love with the community at a time that was magical for the emerging wine industry.  The couple drank more and more Walla Walla wines and met the early winemakers who put Walla Walla on the wine map.  They saw first-hand the excitement and comaraderie surrounding the fledgling industry and decided they wanted to be part of it.  Rich studied wine books three or four hours a day, observed other winemakers, and then the two came up with a business plan for what became Saviah Cellars in 2000. 

The winery and tasting room were among the first to be built in the area south of Walla Walla that today is home to many tasting rooms.  All but one of the estate vineyards were planted even further south in the Oregon part of the Walla Walla Valley AVA.  Rich had some of the earliest vineyards in the Rocks District of Milton Freewater, which helps explain Saviah’s emphasis on Syrah.  Although he makes wines with Bordeaux, Rhone, Italian and Spanish grape varieties, Rich is perhaps best known now for his single vineyard Syrah wines.   There are four different collections of wines at Saviah, including the Jack Collection that offers some of the very best wines for the money ( $18 red wine, $15 white) in Washington state.  Spouses Jack and Saviah were family members with a fascinating story that Rich explores in this interview, along with many other aspects of the business.

Listen to the Interviw:

Lines on Wines · # 159 Saviah Cellars - Rich Funk

Otis Kenyon Wine

Steve Kenyon and Dave Stephenson of Otis Kenyon Wine

Otis Kenyon Wine has the most dramatic backstory of any winery in Washington state.  I don’t want to ruin the interview, so will just say the drama involves some F words:  fire, family, forgiveness, and fine wine.  The star of the story is James Otis Kenyon, a practicing dentist near Milton Freewater in the 1920s.  The winery logo is his silhouette, complete with bowtie and bowler hat.  His grandson Steve Otis Kenyon started the winery in 2004, and is still the owner along with his daughter Muriel.  They have tasting rooms in Walla Walla and Woodinville that celebrate James’s story in a variety of ways, including by offering free matches the way restaurants used to do.  The fire theme is reinforced by the wines, which have such names as Incendiary, Backdraft, Matchless, and Incandescent.  Visitors to the Walla Walla tasting room can enhance the story by adding to the tasting room wall devoted to tasters’ writings and drawings.  

Dave Stephenson enjoyed wine as a college student in California, but never thought of it as a career.  Instead, he studied craft brewing with the goal of opening a brewery.  It was an idea before its time, at least in Bellingham, as there was little to no interest.  In the late 1990s Dave moved to Walla Walla to work in the wine industry, and has never looked back.  He has worked or consulted for various wineries, has his own label Stephenson Cellars, and has been the winemaker at Otis Kenyon since the first vintage in 2004.  Dave’s Otis Kenyon wines are Bordeaux and Rhone style ones, mostly from the Walla Walla Valley.  He does a single varietal Carmenère that is a favorite.  Otis Kenyon wines are great for sipping or pairing with food, and are approachable and affordable.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #158 Otis Kenyon Wine - Steve Kenyon & Dave Stephenson

Cotes de Ciel Wines

Richard Holmes and Paul Vandervort of Cotes de Ciel Wines and Ciel du Cheval Vineyard

To talk about Côtes de Ciel wines, we have to start with the coveted estate Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain.  In 1973, engineers Jim Holmes and John Williams purchased land there with the intention of growing wine grapes.  No other agricultural endeavor had succeeded in this sea of sagebrush, and there was no road, water, electricity, or building on the mountain.  People laughed at the idea of scientists planting anything, but Jim and John were determined.  In 1975 they planted to mostly white wine grapes what would become Kiona and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards, two of the finest vineyards in the state today.  Their efforts attracted others, and helped to turn what was perceived as an agricultural wasteland into one of the premier wine regions in North America.  In this interview, Jim’s son Richard, who manages the vineyard today, talks about what prompted his father to plant on Red Mountain and how people at the time reacted.

Today, Ciel du Cheval grapes are some of the most sought after in the state, and Richard sells to three dozen clients.  In 2012, he decided to use a small percentage of grapes to make estate wines that would highlight grape varieties in the vineyard.  Most of these Côtes de Ciel wines are single varietal, and some showcase grapes not much seen in Washington, such as Arneis and Nebbiolo.  Tasting room manager Paul Vandervort has designed a tasting experience based on his belief that wine tasting is a job interview for the wine.  And during a job interview, presentation is all important.  Thus each wine in a flight is presented in a glass with a different shape.  In this interview, he discusses the effect of glass shape on various wines.  If you are looking for a winetasting experience that is fun and educational, Côtes de Ciel in downtown Walla Walla is an ideal place for you.  And if you are interested in the grape growing side of things, you can tour the vineyard by contacting Red Mountain Trails. Future plans include building a winery and tasting room at the vineyard.    

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · # 157 Cotes de Ciel - Richard Holmes & Paul Vandervort

Yellowhawk Sparkling House

George-Anne Robertson of Yellowhawk Sparkling House

George-Anne Robertson engaged in a variety of pursuits before settling on sparkling wine, including restaurant and hotel management, Japanese language study, raising a family, body building and personal training, fitness videos, teaching yoga and spin classes, and more.  In 2014 she decided to become a sommelier, but soon discovered her interests weren’t in line with that course of study.  She was more interested in the science of wine, and so enrolled in the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture Program.  It was there that she developed a passion for making sparkling wine that only grows more intense with each and every bubble. 

After graduating from the program during the height of the pandemic, George-Anne was on her way to Japan to take a job as a sparkling winemaker, confident that she had followed all the visa regulations.  She landed, only to find out that Japan had changed the visa rules.  She had to return to the US immediately.  It was January 2021, and she had no idea what she was going to do with her life, when she got a call about a job as sparkling winemaker at a new resort in Walla Walla.  She has been the winemaker at the Yellowhawk Resort and Sparkling House ever since.  Visitors to the resort will find food items to go with George-Anne’s wines that are made in both the forced carbonation and traditional method styles.  Whether you like white, rosé, or red bubbles, you will find a wine at Yellowhawk to appeal to your palate.  You can also engage in a hands-on experience with George-Anne to learn about the disgorgement and dosage processes involved in the traditional method of making sparkling wine. 

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #156 Yellowhawk Sparkling House - Georgeanne Robertson

Tipsy Canyon Winery

Mark and Lexi Garvin of Tipsy Canyon Winery

Mark and Tami Garvin spent 30+ years at Boeing, he doing many different jobs, especially Project Management.  They had a vacation home on Lake Chelan, and always dreamed of retiring to the area.  Tami converted Mark from a Rainier Beer drinker to a wine lover, mostly by taking him to wine regions, including Lake Chelan wineries.  Mark got really interested in wine, and imagined himself pouring wine for wineries once he retired.  But then he acquired 400 lbs of grapes and started making wine for friends in his vacation home garage.  After 6 years, the winemaking hobby had mushroomed out of control, to the point that the couple decided to start a winery.  In 2013, they purchased 8 acres of grass in the north shore area of Lake Chelan.  They planted a 2 ½ acre vineyard and built a beautiful tasting room in 2019, complete with outdoor stage for summer concerts.  It is a stunningly beautiful setting, overlooking Roses and Wapato Lakes, vineyards, foothills, and mountains.  

Mark and Tami’s daughter Lexi was very supportive of their winery vision, and three years ago moved to Lake Chelan full time to be assistant winemaker and events manager for their Tipsy Canyon Winery.  While working at the winery, she completed the WSU Enology Program.  Tipsy Canyon focuses on Bordeaux style red wines, and single varietal white wines that aren’t often seen in Washington.  For example, they produce an estate Pinot Blanc that is perfect for summer sipping, and an off-dry Moscato that is ideal for spicy foods.  They source grapes from their own vineyard, others in the Lake Chelan AVA, and Red Mountain, particularly the Quintessence Vineyard.  In May 2024, Tipsy Canyon is partnering with Tsillan Cellars to offer a cruise from Athens to Barcelona.  There will be stops in Greece, Turkey, Italy and Barcelona.  Both wineries’ wines will be on board for tastings and food pairings, and there will be wine excursions possible at each stop.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #155 Tipsy Canyon Winery - Mark & Lexi Garvin

Callan Cellars

Lisa Callan of Callan Cellars

In 2009, Lisa Callan had spent years as a court clerk, real estate agent and mother of three.  With the real estate market in steep decline, she was looking for a new career.  Her brother-in-law signed her up for WSU’s Enology Program without telling her, because he thought she had a great palate.  When she eventually got a call in 2010 letting her know she had a place in the program, she decided to take the plunge and accept.  She first started making her own wines at home, but by 2016 things had gotten too far out of control to continue in the garage.  A family meeting in the hot tub led to her opening her own winery and tasting room space, first in Woodinville in 2017 and then in Lake in Lake Chelan in 2022.  The Callan Cellars Woodinville facility is decorated warehouse space, while the Lake Chelan property is stunningly beautiful tasting space looking out on Lake Chelan with a garden and vineyard nearby.  The beautiful stone for the tasting room and vacation rental comes from the 1930s blasting for the Knapps Hill Tunnel on the Alt 97a Highway between Wenatchee and Lake Chelan.

Lisa’s wines won awards the first year she was licensed, and that helped her gain entrée into some of the finest vineyards in the Yakima Valley AVA.  Her wines have continued to garner impressive awards, including a handful of Double Platinums.  She is known for making outstanding Rhone and Bordeaux style red wines, and whites with grape varieties not often seen in Washington.  For example, her largest production wine is Grenache Blanc, her everyday drinking wine.  She also makes a Picpoul that is an ideal seafood wine and a favorite with club members.  The first Callan Cellars Lake Chelan AVA wine was released this year—a Rosé of Pinot Noir.  Lisa also makes a Rosé of Cinsaut and Grenache, both wines bone dry and delightfully refreshing.  Callan Cellars is definitely a winery to watch and to visit, as more stellar wines are sure to come!!

Listen to the Interview: 

Lines on Wines · #154 Callan Cellars with Lisa Callan

Upchurch Vineyard & Winery

Chris Upchurch of Upchurch Vineyard & Winery

Upchurch Vineyard’s 2020 Hero Twins Cabernet Sauvignon receives 100 points from the Wine Advocate (May 2023)

When most people in the US were drinking Lancers and Mateus, Chris Upchurch was sipping on Beaujolais and Bordeaux wines.  His father loved wine, and always brought bottles back for home consumption when he travelled abroad.  Chris’s global palate impressed bar managers in restaurants where he worked while in college, so he was often tasked with designing wine lists.  This experience turned out to be the foundation for a career in wine, first in retail, then wholesale and, finally, winemaking.  David Lake was his mentor, and helped him get started in 1992 as a co-owner and founding winemaker at DeLille Cellars in Woodinville.  Chris remained head winemaker at DeLille until 2019, making some of the most sought-after wines in the state.  DeLille has always sourced from Grand Cru vineyards mostly in the Yakima Valley, especially those on Red Mountain.

In 2007, Chris and his wife Thea purchased land on Red Mountain for what became their Upchurch Vineyard.  The 18 acres are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and Merlot (10%).  They sell grapes to DeLille Cellars and keep the rest for their own Upchurch Vineyard (UV) and LtL wines.  The signature UV wine each year is a Cabernet Sauvignon, which typically has 9 to 12 % Merlot blended in.  In some vintages, Chris singles out a couple of barrels for a Hero Twins wine that is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The recently released 2020 Hero Twins wine received a 100-point score from the Wine Advocate.  In addition to stellar wines, visitors to Upchurch Vineyard will be treated to a cozy barn style structure that is both rustic and elegant, with plenty of space for tasting room, winemaking, and cellar.   The views of Red Mountain from the outdoor seating area complete with kitchen are hard to beat.  Similarly, the art on all the UV and LtL labels is some of the finest to be found on wine bottles anywhere.  Great wine, great art, stunning setting, friendly folks at Upchurch Vineyard!!

Listen to the Interview:  

Lines on Wines · #153 Upchurch Vineyard with Chris Upchurch

Owen Roe Winery

David O’Reilly of Owen Roe Winery

The O’Reilly family settled in a remote part of British Columbia during the 1970s.  The area was a quiet, peaceful contrast to the violent Time of Troubles in Belfast that prompted the family to pull up roots there and head for North America.  David was 13 when they emigrated, and he likened the family’s new Canadian home to his grandparents’ rural lands in County Cavan, Ireland that he loved to visit.  This love of bucolic settings stayed with him, playing a large part in his pursuing a career in viticulture and enology after graduating from Thomas Aquinas College in California.  After working in several wineries in California and Oregon, David and his wife Angelica started Owen Roe Winery in 1999 in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  Given David’s Irish roots, it’s no wonder that he named the winery after a 17th-century Irish patriot from whom he is descended.  Irish ruins, history and lore are evident on many Owen Roe wine labels.

Owen Roe was a man of high principles, and there are several principles embodied by Owen Roe Winery.  One is that wine is about place, in this case two places:  the Willamette and Yakima Valley AVAs.  All grapes for Owen Roe wines come from these two AVAs, and there has never been a tasting room outside the two valleys.  A second principle is loyalty to and respect for growers, to the point that the winery created a special label called Grower’s Guild.  Owen Roe Winery is also committed to the idea that wine is about story, and there are riveting stories behind many of the wines and labels.  Finally, Owen Roe has always exhibited meticulous attention to detail, whether in grape growing, wine making or label design.  The result is that the winery offers visitors authentic wine experiences, many entertaining stories, and a diverse array of excellent premium and everyday-drinking wines.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #152 Owen Roe Winery - David O'Reilly

Irrigation in the Yakima River Basin

Irrigation in the Yakima River Basin

Lori Brady of the Sunnyside Valley Irrigation District

Urban Eberhart of the Kittitas Reclamation District

For much of history, people fought and died in the cause of religious belief.  Today, people predict a future of deadly battles over water.  Experts forecast shrinking aquifers, snowpacks, and reservoirs, as climate change brings warming temperatures, and real estate development puts ever increasing demands on water supplies.  As early as the 1970s, the Yakima River Basin area in south central Washington state experienced drought serious enough to make locals realize, for the first time, that a clean an ample water supply could not be taken for granted.  Water rights were hotly contested in fierce disputes and endless litigation.  A similar story has played out in many other parts of the world.  But it’s only in the Yakima River Basin that all stakeholders decided to abandon fighting and litigating in favor of cooperating.  The result has been a redefining of irrigation, a plan to ensure an ample water supply for this century and beyond, and a model of water management for the rest of the world.

The Yakima Basin Integrated Plan was developed between 2009-2011, and adopted by the state in 2013.  It is a 30-year plan designed to be implemented in three 10-year phases.  The plan consists of seven elements:  fish passage, fish habitat enhancement, modernizing of irrigation infrastructure, surface storage, water banks, groundwater storage, and enhanced water conservation.  No element is more important than another, so all stakeholders’ needs are tended to equally with this plan.  There are seven major irrigation districts, or divisions, in the Yakima Basin, including one for storage, and two districts participate in this interview.  Manager Lori Brady of the Sunnyside Valley Irrigation District and Secretary Manager Urban Eberhart of the Kittitas Reclamation District discuss some basics about irrigation, what their districts are doing to implement the plan, and how the plan has redefined irrigation and become a model for others across the globe. 

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #151 Irrigation in the Yakima River Basin

Lori Brady - Lori graduated from Washington State University with a degree in civil engineering. She began with Sunnyside Valley Irrigation District in 1989 and spent 16 years in the engineering department before being promoted as the Assistant Manager of Administration. In 2016, Lori was promoted to the position of Manager of  the Sunnyside Valley Irrigation District.

Urban Eberhart - Urban grew up on a farm in the Kittitas Valley and at an early age became a leader in the agriculture community. He was first elected to the Board of Directors of the Kittitas Reclamation District (KRD) in 1986 at the age of 25 and remained an active board member until being appointed as the KRD Secretary Manager in 2015. Urban attended his first Yakima River Basin Water Enhancement Project (YRBWEP) meeting in 1979 and continues to work on finding solutions to Yakima and Columbia River issues.

Ducleaux Cellars

Toby Turlay and Chris Dukelow of Ducleaux Cellars

Toby Turlay and Chris Dukelow met on Match.com at a time when nobody admitted such a thing.  He had 3 sons and a daughter, and she had two daughters, and the new blended family called for lots of blended red wine.  They started making wine in their Issaquah garage, and still refer to their winery as a garagiste, though it has a new home.  In 2018, they purchased 10 acres in the Rocks District of Milton Freewater that came with a 1920s craftsman-style house requiring lots of vision.  They went to work on the house, the Belle Roche estate vineyard, and a winery facility that are now Ducleaux Cellars.  The name is a play on Chris’ last name Dukelow, and a reflection of Toby’s and Chris’ French roots.  They even have a bilingual English/French website and a Huguenot cross on their labels.

The couple decided early on that separate roles at the winery were essential, so Toby is the chief winemaker and Chris assists with tasks at the winery, while spending lots of time with visitors in the tasting room.  They have a passion for sparkling and Rhone wines, and so most of their wines are made in these two styles.  The sparkling wines are pet-nats made with diverse grape varieties, including Grenache, Roussane, Cinsaut, and Dolcetto.  The Dolcetto pet-nat was made secretly by Chris and appropriately named “I’m Already Sorry.”  This Ducleaux wine name and many others such as Anarchy, Raucous, One Night Stand, and Love and Chaos reflect the humor and back story that underlie everything about Ducleaux Cellars.  As they say on their website, we make “Serious wine…handcrafted by not so serious people.”  Listen to the interview to learn about the serious wines, fascinating back stories, and much more.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #150 Ducleaux Cellars - Toby Turlay & Chris Dukelow

Elephant Seven Winery

Joshua West of Elephant Seven Winery

Elephants and wine don’t normally go together, unless you are in Walla Walla visiting the downtown Elephant Seven Winery.  It’s in a beautifully renovated historic building that once held feed and horses rather than elephants.  Winery owners Joshua and Cheryl West both love music, and a music collective they admire explains the elephant connection.  Their winery logo is a small elephant with seven red balloons streaming from its trunk, as if they are carrying the animal along in flight.  The logo embodies simplicity, as does the Elephant Seven website that has no photos and very minimal print that looks like it was hammered out with an old manual Underwood typewriter.  Both the logo and the website are beautifully minimalist—the essence of simplicity—which is at the heart of Joshua’s winemaking philosophy. 

In addition to the logo, the Elephant Seven homepage contains 7 words:  Rhone Varietals, Walla Walla, Sense of Place.  The words capture perfectly Joshua’s passion and purpose as a winemaker.  He uses premier fruit from the Walla Walla Valley AVA to make both white and red Rhone style wines that reflect their vineyard characteristics.  This means he adds as few things as possible to the wines so the vineyard voice and excellent fruit dominate on the palate.  He uses familiar Rhone grape varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, and Roussane, but also less familiar ones, including Marsanne, Picpoul, Grenache Blanc and Clairette Blanche.  Joshua is producing some of the finest Rhone style wines in Washington state,  and at very affordable prices. 

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #149 Elephant Seven Winery with Joshua West

Avennia & Liminal Wines

Marty Taucher & Chris Peterson of Avennia Winery and Liminal Wines

Given Marty Taucher’s business and marketing experience and Chris Peterson’s winemaking expertise, the two turned out to be the perfect team for starting a winery.  They met in 2009 at DeLille Cellars where Chris was winemaker, and Marty was a crush intern who had created a winery business plan for one of his classes.  After months of working together and sharing lots of wine, the plan turned into their Avennia Winery that bottled its first wines in 2010.  Inspired by old world wines, Chris uses traditional winemaking techniques and sources from premier Washington vineyards, especially those with old vines.  In 2021, Marty and Chris purchased their own old vines that were formerly Tapteil Vineyard on Red Mountain.  They now have the original tasting room in Woodinville and an estate tasting room, complete with guest house, on Red Mountain where visitors can taste Avennia Bordeaux and Rhone style wines. 

In 2018, a drive around the Red Mountain area led to a new partnership and brand that is helping to chart the future of Washington winegrowing.  A former colleague of Marty’s at Microsoft, Cameron Myhrvold, had purchased land for a vineyard on the top and north face of Red Mountain.  He hired expert viticulturalist Ryan Johnson to create the vineyard that was just starting to bear fruit at the time Marty and Chris were driving around.  The uniqueness of this Weather Eye Vineyard impressed them so much, that they eventually talked with Cam and Ryan about partnering on a new brand devoted exclusively to the finest blocks at Weather Eye Vineyard.  Liminal Wine was born.  The 2018 inaugural Liminal wines were so stellar, that Sean Sullivan named Liminal Wine his 2020 Washington Winery of the Year.  With the Avennia and Liminal brands, Marty and Chris are helping to chart the future of Washington wine, as we discuss in this interview.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #148 Avennia Winery & Liminal Wine - Marty Taucher & Chris Peterson

Moonbase Cellars

Drew Pauk of Moonbase Cellars

Drew and Laine Pauk met while working at a Missouri grocery store chain, he as a buyer and she as a pharmacist.  They intended to make their home in Missouri, until they caught the wine bug during a stay in Washington state.  Drew pursued wine education and sommelier certificates while at the grocery store, and in 2017 they left Missouri and headed for Walla Walla.  Drew enrolled in the Enology and Viticulture Program at the Community College, and in 2019 they bottled their first Moonbase Cellars wines.  Those wines were released in 2021 when they also opened their downtown tasting room.  Drew credits his and Laine’s backgrounds in business and science, the excellent community college program, and some very helpful mentors for the speed with which Moonbase Cellars became a reality.

The winery name reflects Drew’s interest in space, and he admits to fantasizing about a second tasting room on the moon, though the glasses would need to be big enough to contain the swirls.  Many of the wine names have references to space, including Moonlapse, LGM GSM, and Max Q which is a series of wines made with grapes from the Rocks District AVA.  A favorite wine is the LGM GSM blend, with its little green man (LGM) in a space suit on the label.  The stories behind the names are on the back labels and also explained in this interview.  Drew also discusses some very interesting winemaking techniques he uses such as yeast blends in his excellent Viognier and no racking for his Rhone style wines.  A perk of joining the Moonbase wine club is access to the many wine education videos Drew has produced, which also contain at the end a fascinating moon fact.

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #147 Moonbase Cellars - Drew Pauk

Golden Ridge Cellars

Michael Rasch of Golden Ridge Cellars

Michael Rasch first caught the wine bug in the 1970s while managing a liquor store in Colorado.  While many of us in the 70s were drinking Lancers, Mateus and Blue Nun, Michael’s job had him sampling first growths from Bordeaux.  He later explored wine regions in California, and eventually settled in Seattle working as a lawyer.  People told him about the wines of Walla Walla, many of which he could purchase from his local wine shops.  He was amazed by the quality, and the good value compared to wines from California.  He and his wife Cindy began taking trips to Walla Walla, and dreaming about living there.  That dream came true in 2007 when Cindy got a job in Walla Walla.  The house they purchased came with a vineyard planted in 1998 that was designed by Paul Champoux.  That was the beginning of a new career for Michael as a vigneron, growing his own grapes and making wines.

Michael made his early wines in his home, moving to the incubator facility in 2018.  Golden Ridge Cellars takes its name from the ridge on which the couple lives, the golden wheat fields that still dominate the surrounding area, and the Golden Retriever greeters at the tasting room.  It’s thus no surprise that the winery logo is a Golden Retriever head framed by wheat stems.  Michael is known for his Bordeaux style red wines, especially his estate red.  It’s typically a right bank Bordeaux style wine, meaning one dominated by Merlot.  This style is a reflection of his vineyard, which is planted primarily to Merlot.  He also grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec, and plans to plant some Touriga Nacional which is now allowed for limited use in Bordeaux wines.    

Listen to the Interview:

Lines on Wines · #146 Golden Ridge Cellars - Michael Rasch